The change in the weather brings an adjustment to the local, seasonal produce, as the autumn equinox shortens the days. The summer fruits give way to figs, apples, pears and quince, and runner beans and courgettes make way for edible squash and local brassicas.
The change is evident at the butchery counter as well. Venison has been in season for a month, but the cooler evenings encourage thoughts of wild venison stews or a roast haunch for a special Sunday lunch. We have venison steaks and loin that can be pan-fried, and go well with the last of the hedgerow blackberries.
The partridge season has started, they are tender and less gamey than pheasant. You can simply roast them (20-25mins in 200°C) with herbs, butter and a slice of bacon on top, or try this Asian-style recipe with forest mushrooms, soy and ginger. We have local Mutton and some superb East Harting lamb, perfect for spiced tagines and slow-cooked roasts, while Lee is well stocked with aged ribs of beef and sirloin.
We are now taking orders for pannage pork that are feeding on the acorns of the New Forest. The pannage boxes won’t be ready until November, but we always sell out, so you need to pre-book to avoid disappointment.
With fresh fish on Fridays, you can grab locally caught bass, brill and crab, while you can protect your local chalk streams by feasting on American Signal Crayfish.
Foots Farm are harvesting their autumn brassicas – with Brocolli, Cavollo Nero, hispi and savoy cabbage all available, alongside corn-on-the-cob and onion squash. These edible squash are delicious roasted with lots of chilli and garlic, and that combination works just as well in a rich soup. There are some lovely marrows as well.
So while the nights are drawing in, it’s time to adjust to the autumn menu and take advantage of local, seasonal produce that is healthy, nutritious and makes you feel good about cooking and eating.