Wild Porcini Mushrooms

Every few years when the conditions are perfect, the woods produce a glut of the most glorious food: Porcini mushrooms (also known as Cep in French or Penny Bun in England). The heavy rains after a dry summer stir the subterranean world into action, and the mycellium networks that weave through the woodland unseen for months finally show their hand with a glorious fruiting of mushrooms.

The glut may only last for two weeks, so if you enjoy feasting on fungi, then you need to take advantage and grab some fresh porcini while they are available this weekend.

My favourite way to enjoy them is on a slice of good sourdough toast, with garlic, parsley and seasoning. However, they are great in pasta, risotto or as a steak sauce. You need to make sure that you keep your recipes simple so that you don’t overwhelm their incredible flavour and firm texture.

Select fresh, firm porcini and slice them evenly. Add to melted butter oven medium-high heat, season with salt and let them sweat out any additional moisture. When the liquid evaporates, you can add the chopped garlic and then stir the porcini regularly as they start to turn golden brown and become firmer. Make sure they don’t burn, but brown evenly for that nutty, firm texture that makes them so special. Taste and adjust seasoning as needed.

Fresh Porcini Mushroom Risotto

Ingredients (serves 4):

• 300g fresh porcini mushrooms, cleaned and sliced
• 300g arborio or carnaroli rice
• 1 small onion or shallot, finely chopped
• 1 clove garlic, minced
• 1 litre hot vegetable or chicken stock
• 100ml dry white wine
• 50g butter
• 50g Parmesan (or local hard cheese), grated
• 2 tbsp olive oil
• Fresh parsley, chopped
• Salt & pepper to taste

Method:

1. Heat the stock in a pan and keep warm over a low simmer.
2. In a wide pan, add olive oil and half the butter. Sauté the onion gently until soft, then add garlic.
3. Stir in the rice, coating in the oil and butter, cooking for 1–2 minutes until slightly translucent.
4. Pour in the wine and let it bubble away.
5. Begin adding the stock, one ladle at a time, stirring frequently and waiting until the liquid is absorbed before adding more. This should take about 18–20 minutes.
6. Meanwhile, in a separate pan, sauté the porcini mushrooms in butter with a little salt until golden and tender.
7. When the rice is nearly done, stir most of the mushrooms into the risotto, saving a few for garnish.
8. Remove from the heat, stir in the remaining butter and Parmesan, season to taste. Cover and let rest for 2 minutes before serving.
9. Plate up, topping with the reserved mushrooms and chopped parsley.

Wild porcini Mushrooms – £35/kg while stocks last.